Coming out of this corner, we are installing a dead-corner cabinet with a pull-out shelving system followed by a dishwasher on the end. Here’s a slick way to anchor in a cover panel to hide your seams while still creating a strong panel. These are all stock L-brackets from IKEA repurposed.
And here’s a love note to the countertop gorillas to remind them to leave consistent spacing.
Ikea’s kitchen lighting systems are a fantastic value, and can be a perfect solution to your cabinet lighting needs if you can install them easily and in a way that maintains the warranty and produces a really clean finished product. This is the Ansulta lighting system puck light that is commonly used in glass-front cabinets. It can look pretty slick if you go the extra mile and hide all the wiring.
Notice the big extension cord thing on the right side. This is stock, but it can be plugged in or hard wired into a junction box above the cabinet for a much cleaner look. The electrician is still working on this project, so this is just for testing purposes to demonstrate that the lighting works.
Here is the cabinet fully lit. There is still trim and a base cabinet to install. Note that the lights are centered on the doors, not the interior dimension of the cabinet. This is key. Since the thickness of the side panels is 3/4″, your interior dimension will be 3/4″ off.
Your spacing from the back wall here is set by the length of your wire channel. It’s something like 3 3/8″ from the front of the cabinet. Note that there’s a 1/16″ reveal from the side panels to the bottom and top to account for.
Once you hide the wiring in holes drilled through the top of the cabinet, it’s like they’re floating in the panel. No visible wires!
Here we measure the cabinet first, 30″ total from end of door to end of door, 15″ from the edge, centered on the depth of the cabinet. Cross hairs will help you line up the bracket. It takes a fairly large hole to fit the wire and harness through the panel.